Jimmy Reid – Working Class Hero

Jimmy Reid

I always remember as a young 11 year old scout seeing the River Clyde for the first time as we neared the end of the slow and dreary overnight 14 hour voyage from Dublin to Glasgow. Dreary was the voyage trying to catch some fitful sleep in the basic “steerage” class in the bowels of the antiquated Burns and Laird boat “Irish Coast” which carried a mixture of cattle and people. I looked at the cattle with envy as they disembarked three hours before us at Port Glasgow; to this day I’m convinced they had the better deal. Dreary was the voyage and dreary was the wet drizzly morning as we edged up the river to the centre of Glasgow. But as we went up the Clyde I looked open mouthed at the miles and miles of shipyards with their slipways to the river, enormous sheds and cranes and behind rows of grim tenement buildings in the black limestone calp which added to the gloom of the perspective. Then standing out from all others was the sight of the magnificent 66,000 tons of the QE2 on its berth at John Brown’s yard virtually complete just 2 months before its launch. For a young Irish kid this was not just a different landscape, in its primeval strangeness it could have been a different planet.


Irish Sea routes in the 1960's


The Burns & Laird boat "Irish Coast" which I travelled on

That was then the still impressive Clyde which at one stage had 257 shipyards and built a quarter of the world’s ships which were proudly referred to as “Clyde Built”, the ultimate badge of quality in maritime circles. That was then but now is different, there are only two yards remaining at Govan and the rest of the Clyde I saw is a post-industrial wasteland. Where our boat docked that morning in the centre of Glasgow is no longer navigable, silt has reclaimed the channel and a pedestrian bridge blocks it off providing access to a Clyde Heritage themed area and the “Armadillo” concert hall and conference centre which is meant to bring visitors to the “New Glasgow.” In truth it is only a shadow of its former self for not just the Shipbuilding is gone but also all the associated trades and crafts backed up by the famous Glasgow Art School and the impressive Engineering Faculty at the still prestigious university. Today Glasgow is a city which has lost its heart and its meaning where the biggest employers are the call centres which employ 150,000 people. It could have been so different if people had listened to a person who was a true Working Class Hero, Jimmy Reid.




SECC Glasgow - Arena; The Glasgow "Armadillo" and the once bustling quayside where passenger ships docked

The death of veteran trade unionist and socialist Jimmy Reid, just short of the 40th anniversary of the Upper Clyde Shipbuilder’s work-in which he led, robs the radical left of a once-towering figure. Reid has been labelled "the best MP Scotland never had". Reid secured his place in the pantheon of popular revolts because, along with fellow Communist party members and fellow travellers such as Jimmy Airlie and Sammy Barr, he led not only one of the most important post-war struggles but one which did not end in glorious defeat. Instead, the revolt ended after 18 months of hard struggle in a stunning victory with the nationalisation of the yards. This was one of the first nails in Edward Heath's political coffin, as he became a lame duck prime minister who was forced to make umpteen U-turns.


Old cine film of a boat trip up and down the River Clyde, Scotland. From Greenock to Glasgow & back in the 1960's. Featuring footage of the many shipyards that used to sit beside the river.

What Reid had done was to initiate a form of constructive protest which was far more difficult for governments to deal with than simply walking out away from the job. The hallmark of what Reid said in his moving speeches was that the dignity of workers demanded discipline and that it was their duty to continue production as far as they were able to do so. This attitude at the time was novel, and made a tremendous impression among those who would normally have been quick to condemn strike action.


Jimmy Reid as Rector of the University of Glasgow

Reid remained a cult figure and was elected by the students as rector of Glasgow University. His rectorial address was hailed by the New York Times, who printed it in full, as "the greatest speech since the Gettysburg Address" Re-reading it today it still resonates with our society and has lost little of its relevance and I reprint it in full;

“Alienation is the precise and correctly applied word for describing the major social problem in Britain today. People feel alienated by society. In some intellectual circles it is treated almost as a new phenomenon. It has, however, been with us for years. What I believe is true is that today it is more widespread, more pervasive than ever before. Let me right at the outset define what I mean by alienation. It is the cry of men who feel themselves the victims of blind economic forces beyond their control. It's the frustration of ordinary people excluded from the processes of decision-making. The feeling of despair and hopelessness that pervades people who feel with justification that they have no real say in shaping or determining their own destinies.



Many may not have rationalised it. May not even understand, may not be able to articulate it. But they feel it. It therefore conditions and colours their social attitudes. Alienation expresses itself in different ways in different people. It is to be found in what our courts often describe as the criminal antisocial behaviour of a section of the community. It is expressed by those young people who want to opt out of society, by drop-outs, the so-called maladjusted, those who seek to escape permanently from the reality of society through intoxicants and narcotics. Of course, it would be wrong to say it was the sole reason for these things. But it is a much greater factor in all of them than is generally recognised.

Society and its prevailing sense of values leads to another form of alienation. It alienates some from humanity. It partially de-humanises some people, makes them insensitive, ruthless in their handling of fellow human beings, self-centred and grasping. The irony is, they are often considered normal and well-adjusted. It is my sincere contention that anyone who can be totally adjusted to our society is in greater need of psychiatric analysis and treatment than anyone else. They remind me of the character in the novel, Catch 22, the father of Major Major. He was a farmer in the American Mid-West. He hated suggestions for things like medi-care, social services, unemployment benefits or civil rights. He was, however, an enthusiast for the agricultural policies that paid farmers for not bringing their fields under cultivation. From the money he got for not growing alfalfa he bought more land in order not to grow alfalfa. He became rich. Pilgrims came from all over the state to sit at his feet and learn how to be a successful non-grower of alfalfa. His philosophy was simple. The poor didn't work hard enough and so they were poor. He believed that the good Lord gave him two strong hands to grab as much as he could for himself. He is a comic figure. But think – have you not met his like here in Britain? Here in Scotland? I have.


Glasgow Tenements in 1957

It is easy and tempting to hate such people. However, it is wrong. They are as much products of society, and of a consequence of that society, human alienation, as the poor drop-out. They are losers. They have lost the essential elements of our common humanity. Man is a social being. Real fulfilment for any person lies in service to his fellow men and women. The big challenge to our civilisation is not Oz, a magazine I haven't seen, let alone read. Nor is it permissiveness, although I agree our society is too permissive. Any society which, for example, permits over one million people to be unemployed is far too permissive for my liking. Nor is it moral laxity in the narrow sense that this word is generally employed – although in a sense here we come nearer to the problem. It does involve morality, ethics, and our concept of human values. The challenge we face is that of rooting out anything and everything that distorts and devalues human relations.



Let me give two examples from contemporary experience to illustrate the point.

Recently on television I saw an advert. The scene is a banquet. A gentleman is on his feet proposing a toast. His speech is full of phrases like "this full-bodied specimen". Sitting beside him is a young, buxom woman. The image she projects is not pompous but foolish. She is visibly preening herself, believing that she is the object of the bloke's eulogy. Then he concludes – "and now I give...", then a brand name of what used to be described as Empire sherry. Then the laughter. Derisive and cruel laughter. The real point, of course, is this. In this charade, the viewers were obviously expected to identify not with the victim but with her tormentors.
The other illustration is the widespread, implicit acceptance of the concept and term "the rat race". The picture it conjures up is one where we are scurrying around scrambling for position, trampling on others, back-stabbing, all in pursuit of personal success. Even genuinely intended, friendly advice can sometimes take the form of someone saying to you, "Listen, you look after number one." Or as they say in London, "Bang the bell, Jack, I'm on the bus."



To the students [of Glasgow University] I address this appeal. Reject these attitudes. Reject the values and false morality that underlie these attitudes. A rat race is for rats. We're not rats. We're human beings. Reject the insidious pressures in society that would blunt your critical faculties to all that is happening around you, that would caution silence in the face of injustice lest you jeopardise your chances of promotion and self-advancement. This is how it starts, and before you know where you are, you're a fully paid-up member of the rat-pack. The price is too high. It entails the loss of your dignity and human spirit. Or as Christ put it, "What doth it profit a man if he gain the whole world and suffer the loss of his soul?"

Profit is the sole criterion used by the establishment to evaluate economic activity. From the rat race to lame ducks. The vocabulary in vogue is a give-away. It's more reminiscent of a human menagerie than human society. The power structures that have inevitably emerged from this approach threaten and undermine our hard-won democratic rights. The whole process is towards the centralisation and concentration of power in fewer and fewer hands. The facts are there for all who want to see. Giant monopoly companies and consortia dominate almost every branch of our economy. The men who wield effective control within these giants exercise a power over their fellow men which is frightening and is a negation of democracy.


The liner QE2 being launched from John Brown's yard on the Clyde, September 1967

Government by the people for the people becomes meaningless unless it includes major economic decision-making by the people for the people. This is not simply an economic matter. In essence it is an ethical and moral question, for whoever takes the important economic decisions in society ipso facto determines the social priorities of that society.

From the Olympian heights of an executive suite, in an atmosphere where your success is judged by the extent to which you can maximise profits, the overwhelming tendency must be to see people as units of production, as indices in your accountants' books. To appreciate fully the inhumanity of this situation, you have to see the hurt and despair in the eyes of a man suddenly told he is redundant, without provision made for suitable alternative employment, with the prospect in the West of Scotland, if he is in his late forties or fifties, of spending the rest of his life in the Labour Exchange. Someone, somewhere has decided he is unwanted, unneeded, and is to be thrown on the industrial scrap heap. From the very depth of my being, I challenge the right of any man or any group of men, in business or in government, to tell a fellow human being that he or she is expendable.



The concentration of power in the economic field is matched by the centralisation of decision-making in the political institutions of society. The power of Parliament has undoubtedly been eroded over past decades, with more and more authority being invested in the Executive. The power of local authorities has been and is being systematically undermined. The only justification I can see for local government is as a counter- balance to the centralised character of national government.

Local government is to be restructured. What an opportunity, one would think, for de-centralising as much power as possible back to the local communities. Instead, the proposals are for centralising local government. It's once again a blue-print for bureaucracy, not democracy. If these proposals are implemented, in a few years when asked "Where do you come from?" I can reply: "The Western Region." It even sounds like a hospital board.

It stretches from Oban to Girvan and eastwards to include most of the Glasgow conurbation. As in other matters, I must ask the politicians who favour these proposals – where and how in your calculations did you quantify the value of a community? Of community life? Of a sense of belonging? Of the feeling of identification? These are rhetorical questions. I know the answer. Such human considerations do not feature in their thought processes.

Everything that is proposed from the establishment seems almost calculated to minimise the role of the people, to miniaturise man. I can understand how attractive this prospect must be to those at the top. Those of us who refuse to be pawns in their power game can be picked up by their bureaucratic tweezers and dropped in a filing cabinet under "M" for malcontent or maladjusted. When you think of some of the high flats around us, it can hardly be an accident that they are as near as one could get to an architectural representation of a filing cabinet.


Govan shipyard, one of only two left on the River Clyde, saved from closure by Jimmy Reid and his colleagues in 1971

If modern technology requires greater and larger productive units, let's make our wealth-producing resources and potential subject to public control and to social accountability. Let's gear our society to social need, not personal greed. Given such creative re-orientation of society, there is no doubt in my mind that in a few years we could eradicate in our country the scourge of poverty, the underprivileged, slums, and insecurity.

Even this is not enough. To measure social progress purely by material advance is not enough. Our aim must be the enrichment of the whole quality of life. It requires a social and cultural, or if you wish, a spiritual transformation of our country. A necessary part of this must be the restructuring of the institutions of government and, where necessary, the evolution of additional structures so as to involve the people in the decision-making processes of our society. The so-called experts will tell you that this would be cumbersome or marginally inefficient. I am prepared to sacrifice a margin of efficiency for the value of the people's participation. Anyway, in the longer term, I reject this argument.


George Square & Town Hall, Glasgow

To unleash the latent potential of our people requires that we give them responsibility. The untapped resources of the North Sea are as nothing compared to the untapped resources of our people. I am convinced that the great mass of our people go through life without even a glimmer of what they could have contributed to their fellow human beings. This is a personal tragedy. It's a social crime. The flowering of each individual's personality and talents is the pre-condition for everyone's development.

In this context education has a vital role to play. If automation and technology is accompanied as it must be with a full employment, then the leisure time available to man will be enormously increased. If that is so, then our whole concept of education must change. The whole object must be to equip and educate people for life, not solely for work or a profession. The creative use of leisure, in communion with and in service to our fellow human beings, can and must become an important element in self-fulfilment.

Universities must be in the forefront of development, must meet social needs and not lag behind them. It is my earnest desire that this great University of Glasgow should be in the vanguard, initiating changes and setting the example for others to follow. Part of our educational process must be the involvement of all sections of the university on the governing bodies. The case for student representation is unanswerable. It is inevitable.


Orange Parade, Glasgow, 2008

My conclusion is to re-affirm what I hope and certainly intend to be the spirit permeating this address. It's an affirmation of faith in humanity. All that is good in man's heritage involves recognition of our common humanity, an unashamed acknowledgement that man is good by nature. Burns expressed it in a poem that technically was not his best, yet captured the spirit. In "Why should we idly waste our prime...":

"The golden age, we'll then revive, each man shall be a brother,
In harmony we all shall live and till the earth together,
In virtue trained, enlightened youth shall move each fellow creature,
And time shall surely prove the truth that man is good by nature."

It's my belief that all the factors to make a practical reality of such a world are maturing now. I would like to think that our generation took mankind some way along the road towards this goal. It's a goal worth fighting for."

James Reid, trade union activist, politician, journalist and broadcaster: born Govan 9 July 1932; married Joan Swankie (three daughters); died Greenock 10 August 2010.



Jimmy Reid being interviewed on the Upper Clyde Shipbuilder’s work-in

BURN'S NIGHT TALE - A NEW TWIST

Robert Burns

On 25 January 1759 poet Robert Burns was born so this year the 250th anniversary of his birth is being celebrated.

Scotland's National Bard entered the world in a clay biggan at Alloway. Although born into a poor family, Burns's father enrolled him at a local school and the poet's love of language was born. John Murdoch taught Burns and his brother Gilbert in a school founded by their father and neighbours. Murdoch introduced Burns to the works of Alexander Pope, schooling him in English, French and Latin. In 1774, Burns wrote his first song, ‘Handsome Nell’, for Nellie Kilpatrick.

Burns wrote in a light “Scots” dialect which is not Gaelic but an English dialect spoken in the Scottish Borders and Lowlands. The Scots language (the Scots leid) refers to Anglic varieties derived from early northern Middle English spoken in parts of Scotland and Northern Ireland. In Scotland it is sometimes called Lowland Scots to distinguish it from Scottish Gaelic traditionally spoken in the Highlands and Islands. Scots is also spoken in parts of Northern Ireland and border areas of the Republic of Ireland, where it is known in official circles as Ulster Scots or Ullans.

In honour of his Celtic compatriots the Sage publishes this New Twist for Burns Night. The Burns Supper is an institution of Scottish life: a night to celebrate the life and works of the national Bard. Suppers can range from an informal gathering of friends to a huge, formal dinner full of pomp and circumstance. The highlight of the entertainment on Burns Night is the “Address To a Haggis” which is quoted below.

Guests should normally stand to welcome the star attraction, The Haggis, which should be delivered on a silver platter by a procession comprising the chef, the piper and the person who will address the Haggis. A whisky-bearer should also arrive to ensure the toasts are well lubricated. During the procession, guests clap in time to the music until the Haggis reaches its destination at the table. The music stops and everyone is seated in anticipation of the address To a Haggis.


Piping in The Haggis

So for the New Twist;

Boris Johnson is visiting an Edinburgh hospital. He enters a ward full of
patients with no obvious sign of injury and greets one.

The patient replies:

"Fair fa your honest sonsie face,
Great chieftain o' the pudding race,
Aboon them o' you take your place,
Painch, tripe or thairm,
As langs my airm."

Boris is confused, so he just grins and moves on to the next patient.

The patient responds:

" Some hae meat and canna eat,
And some wad eat that want it,
But we hae meat and we can eat,
So let the Lord be thankit."

Even more confused, and his grin now rictus-like, the Mayor moves on to the next patient, who immediately begins to chant:

"We sleekit, cowerin, timorous beastie,
Thou needna start awa sae hastie,
Wi bickerin brattle."

Now seriously troubled, Boris turns to the accompanying doctor and asks

"What kind of facility is this? A mental ward?"

"Och, nooooo……" replies the doctor.

"This is the serious Burns unit."



Burns Cottage Alloway

Jacobite Express

The West Highland Line (Scottish Gaelic: Rathad Iarainn nan Eilean - "Iron Road to the Isles") is one of the most scenic railway lines in Britain, linking the fishing port of Mallaig on the west coast to Glasgow City. Passenger services on the line are operated by First ScotRail, primarily between Glasgow and Mallaig with the daily Caledonian Sleeper overnight service between Fort William and London Euston. Our sleeper train from London terminated at Fort William, but the true glory of the West Highland Line was yet to come. The section between Fort William and Mallaig passes over a magnificent viaduct at Glenfinnan, through Arisaig with its fine views of the Small Isles of Rùm, Eigg, Muck and Canna, and the sparkling white sands of Morar before coming to Mallaig itself.



It is regarded as one of the Great Railway Journeys of the World and was voted Top Railway Journey in the World 2009 and 2010 by Wanderlust Magazine, due mainly to the stunning scenery through which the steam hauled Jacobite Express travels. The 84 mile round trip takes you past Britain's highest mountain, deepest loch, shortest river and most westerly station.


Black 5 Loco “The Sherwood Forester”



On this Friday morning as we pulled into Fort William on the overnight Caledonian Sleeper from London we did so with an increasing sense of anticipation for on the platform opposite was our next transport, the hissing, steaming “Jacobite Express” the steam locomotive-hauled train which operates over this section in summer and which in less than a half an hour's time would take us on our next adventure the 42 miles to Mallaig. This it would do slowly for just over two hours with time to appreciate the scenery of sea, mountain and isle on this twisting single line track to Mallaig, the port for the Isle of Skye.


Fort William

Described as one of the great railway journeys of the world this 84 mile round trip takes you past a list of impressive extremes. It starts near the highest mountain in Britain (Ben Nevis), visits Britain's most westerly mainland railway station (Arisaig), then passes close by the deepest freshwater loch in Britain (Loch Morar), and the shortest river in Britain (River Morar) and finally arrives next to the deepest seawater loch in Europe - Loch Nevis. The train leaves Fort William at 10:20am and returns to Fort William at 4:00pm with an hour and a half in Mallaig. It is a great way to spend the day! On this Friday morning the locomotive was a Black 5 “The Sherwood Forester” which pulled a rake of atmospheric Mark 2 British Rail stock which has a brake van, a First Class coach, Diner Coach and Standard Class coaches which also included an onboard souvenir shop. In First Class tea and scones are served and there is a friendly ambience on board. Make sure you make a reservation (01524 737751) as this train has lots of coach party bookings with American, Japanese and Continental tourists.


"Black 5" Loco


Jacobite Express

This section of the West Highland line, the Fort William to Mallaig extension, became a reality following an Act passed in the House of Commons in 1896. Lady Margaret Cameron of Locheil cut the first sod on the 21st January 1897 from which point the contractors, Robert McAlpine and Son, were allowed 5 years 6 months to construct the 40 miles of track. The task was completed by April 1901. Some 3,500 navvies worked on the line and whilst the viaducts are partially faced in stone they are in fact durably constructed in poured concrete giving the contractor the nickname which was to stick with him “Concrete Bob.” This was the first mass concrete viaduct in the country, and the use of concrete rather than stonework is one of the reasons that the West Highland Line has remained usable to this day.



From Fort William the train crosses the River Lochy with the ruined Inverlochy Castle on the east side of the river. After crossing the river the train travels along a flat expanse called the Corpach Moss with houses to the left and the Great Glen stretching into the distance to the right. The Great Glen is a spectacular valley running for over 60 miles between Loch Linnhe in the south west and Inverness and Moray Firth in the north east. The train slows down near the far end of the Moss to Cross the Caledonian Canal.




Hogwarts Express

To the left of the train there is Neptune's Staircase a row of locks that raise the canal to a height of 65 feet. The longest lock gate system in Britain and built during the Napoleonic Wars. Even (like most of the works built in response to the Napoleonic Wars) though it was never used for its wartime purpose the Caledonian Canal is a wonderful ship canal traversing the Great Glen of Scotland from Fort William to Inverness. One final point about Fort William – there is no fort! Built as part of a chain across the Great Glen which included Fort George and Fort Augustus it was knocked down to build the railway!




Neptune's Staircase on the Caledonian Canal


Glenfinnan Viaduct

The train does stop en route to Mallaig at the village of Glenfinnan where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard. After crossing the world famous 21 arch Glenfinnan viaduct, which has been used in the Harry Potter movies, and offers wonderful views down the 17 mile long Loch Shiel, the train stops at the station giving you time to stretch your legs and visit the Museum in the station buildings. Situated at the head of Loch Shiel, Glenfinnan was the setting for the start of the ill fated Jacobite Rebellion led by Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. Glenfinnan is a very special place, and is almost hallowed ground for many Scots because of the historic associations with the Jacobite cause. It was here in 1745 that Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard in front of his gathered army to signify the beginning of the doomed second Jacobite rising that would become known as the "45". A 65ft monument commemorates the event, with further fascinating memorabilia and displays relating to Bonnie Prince Charlie to be found in the Visitor Centre. The statue on the top is not as many imagine that of the Prince, but one of his supporters. The monument was originally part of a hunting lodge which has since disappeared. Boat trips are available on the loch between Easter and October.


Glenfinnan Monument & Lough Shiel


The "45" The Jacobite Rising

Next we continued to Lochailort which is well known for having firsts. Here, during the construction of the railway, as there were over 2,000 navvies living here, the first construction site hospital in Britain was established with 8 beds, 2 nurses and a doctor. Lochailort was also the first site of fish farms now seen all over Scotland. It was established in 1969, by the then Marine Harvest company. Lochailort is of interest because of Inverailort Castle, used for commando training in the second world war. Churchill’s declaration of unconventional war prompted the creation of the top-secret Special Operations Executive (SOE). Its agents would cause havoc behind enemy lines. In the autumn of 1940 the first recruits began to arrive at Inverailort, SOE’s initial Highland training HQ. Here, far from prying eyes, they absorbed essential paramilitary skills; how to survive in the wild, how to handle weapons and explosives, how to wage guerrilla war and how to kill silently. To teach them came a legendary duo from Shanghai, men used to policing the toughest and roughest city of its day - Major Bill Fairbairn and Captain Eric Sykes, who jointly invented the famous double-edged commando knife.


White sands of Morar

Beyond are the villages of Arisaig, Morar and Mallaig. On a clear summer's day from Arisaig you can see the "Small Isles" of Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and the southern tip of Skye. From there the train passes Morar and the silvery beaches used in the films "Highlander" and "Local Hero." Loch Morar is worth a visit as well, it is the deepest fresh water loch in Europe at 310 metres, and has its own monster called Morag!


Mallaig with the Isle of Skye beyond


Main Street Mallaig


Ferry to Skye

The final destination is of course Mallaig. A bustling fishing port located at the end of the famous "Road to the Isles". From the ferry terminal you can travel to Skye and the Inner Hebridean Islands of Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna. There is plenty to see and do while in the village and you have plenty of time before the return journey to Fort William. Whilst in Mallaig you can visit the Heritage Centre but whilst interesting I found the exhibits haphazard and somewhat amateurishly displayed. When the train first arrived at the village it consisted of a few cottages and the notoriety of being the point where Bonnie Prince Charlie returned to the mainland after his wanderings with Flora MacDonald in the Outer Hebrides. However, with the opening of the line in 1901, the harbour was built, another task taken on by the engineers of the line and before long, Mallaig became one of the most important fishing ports on the western coast of Britain - a position it still holds to this day. However beyond the fishing and the ferry to Skye this is a tourist village determined to rake in the tourist pound during the season. Two examples, despite the expectation of fresh seafood the village speciality appears to be battered haddock and chips with tea, bread and butter for £8.50, the price being standard wherever you go. There are no left luggage facilities at the station but you are directed to the Waterside shop where you can leave your bags for £2.00 each.



After having lunch and sightseeing we reprised our route back to Fort William and to Glasgow on ScotRail. This is a long trip (over 5 hours) on a turbo diesel service(with no First Class) but the ScotRail staff were friendly enough and it provided an opportunity to drink deeply from the cornucopia which is the dramatically beautiful scenery on the deservedly famous Iron Road to the Isles.



The Road to the Isles is described in the traditional Scottish ballad of the same name with the well-known chorus:

Sure, by Tummel and Loch Rannoch
And Lochaber I will go.
By heather tracks wi' heaven in their wiles;
If it's thinkin' in your inner heart
Braggart's in my step,
You've never smelt the tangle o' the Isles.
O, the far Coolins are puttin' love on me.
As step I wi' my cromak to the lsles.

Note; "Coolins" are the Cuillin mountains on Skye and a "cromak" is a shepherd's crook.

See also; Getting to Fort William on the Caledonian Sleeper

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/07/caledonian-sleeper.html





travel

Caledonian Sleeper

Sleeper Car

For those who have yet to discover it the Caledonian Sleeper provides the most interesting train journey in Britain. It's the most civilised, romantic, time-effective and environmentally-friendly way from central London to the heart of Scotland. For the English, the sleeper is the ideal travel option for a stress-free weekend in the Highlands or business meeting in Scotland, avoiding a short-haul flight and its disproportionate contribution to global warming. Every night except Saturday night, Caledonian Sleeper trains leave central London for Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen, Fort William, Perth, Dundee, Stirling, Gleneagles, Aviemore and many other places all over Scotland.


Class 90 Loco


Pair of Pendolinos at Euston

The train leaves London’s Euston station each evening (except Saturday) and impresses by its length alone normally comprising 16/17 carriages and a pair of Locomotives. The train contains within that length a Dining Car, Lounge Car, Couchette Car as well as First and Standard Class Sleeper cars. Each sleeping car has the same layout. They have 12 Sleeper compartments with a disabled accessible toilet at one end and a ladies and gents at the other end of the carriage. The compartment beside the disabled loo is also accessible. If you book a First Class compartment you have it to yourself and in Standard Class the upper berth is lowered so two share the same compartment. The compartments were refurbished last year and have a fresh feel with the walls on the berth side being lined in blue moquette and with a fold down table over the berth. At the foot there is a wide shelf under the window which has a blackout blind. On the berth side this provides a storage spot for your luggage and on the window side it folds up in front of the window to reveal a large sink and to the side a shaver socket. On the wall opposite the berth there are two sets of double hangers on a strap in two panels which have a moulded indentation with Velcro straps to hold your clothes in place.



If you are travelling First Class (We were!) one of these is an interconnecting door and if you have booked two adjoining cabins this can be opened. If this is done it hinges across the outside door to one compartment leaving one door to access from the train corridor but giving you an extremely roomy layout between two compartments which, as devotees of James Bond movies know, can be surprisingly convenient. One other point, the doors to the corridor are positioned so they are not at the corridor windows giving greater privacy if you open them when at a station. All in all, this is very comfortable accommodation. There are no showers on the train but if you are travelling First Class these are available free in the First Class Lounge’s at the major stations to First Class ticket holders.




First Class Lounge Euston

As you leave the sterility of Euston behind you realise this is not just a train – it is an elongated mobile village with a community of regulars and visitors who either know each other already or will soon introduce themselves in the convivial surroundings of the Lounge or Dining cars. The Caledonian Sleeper from London to Fort William, sometimes known as “The Deerstalker”, is easily the most amazing train ride in Britain. Imagine the convenience of a train that leaves rainy central London after work at 21:15 and arrives at Fort William in the glorious Scottish West Highlands at the foot of Ben Nevis (the highest mountain in Britain) at 09:54 next morning. Imagine a trip where you go to bed as the train speeds through familiar London suburbs at 80mph, then wake up in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains, streams and woods, sunlight streaming through the window, deer bounding away from the train, a diesel locomotive struggling to haul the two sleeping-cars and lounge car up the gradients and around the sharp curves of the scenic West Highland Line at 40mph. Imagine a train that has almost “cruise train” facilities - private sleeping compartments and a plush lounge - yet on which “Bargain berth” fares start at only £19 one way.


Standard Class Berths




Train Corridor with accesible compartment


Disabled friendly toilet

Regular fares start at £107 return sharing a 2-berth room or £199 return with a room to yourself (passengers travelling alone can opt to book a berth in a 2-berth room and share with another passenger of the same sex, if they don't want to pay the 1st class single berth fare). Anyone who lives in London or the South of England but who loves the Scottish West Highlands should know about this train. If you fancy a weekend away in the heart of the Highlands, this train makes it possible..! Book online at www.firstscotrail.com.




Sleeper Compartment

We travelled up to Scotland on a Thursday night and whatever else you can say about Euston Station it never fails to disappoint! With some time to kill after work I had arranged to rendezvous at the First Class coffee lounge as my travelling companion has impaired mobility (as do 10% of the UK’s population) but this lounge on the ground floor by the ticket office closes at 20.00 hrs. So we headed for the Virgin First Class Lounge but in defiance of the provisions of the Phase 3 of the Disability Discrimination Act (DDA), allegedly effective from 1st October 2006 this has no step free access or indeed any signs offering help or assistance to disabled people as indeed the lounge, the morose Britannia Bar and perversely, the Medi-Centre are up an awkward flight of stairs with 26 steps impassable to mobility impaired persons, particularly if they have luggage. If they struggle against the odds they are then presented with a heavy outward opening door as a final obstacle. Inside there is a relatively anodyne lounge with good service, loos and showers and complimentary beverages and a rudimentary “business area.” The staff have not had the disability awareness training required under the DDA and enquiries about access are met with the (untrue) assertion that the “whole station is being knocked down and rebuilt in four years time.” What do you say Richard Branson? Should the station owner, Network Rail, meet its legal and moral obligations under the DDA or should the unattractive premise of the Act “let the wobbly people sue us!” be put to the test?


Berth


Sink with shelf raised

Things improved as the train platform was announced (late as it turned out, you should be able to board a half hour before departure) and we went to platform 15 to board. A tip here, First or Standard Class, make sure you also make a reservation as this was a full train and passengers without berth or couchette reservations were being turned away. This is a very long train and the Fort William section is at the top and if you need assistance ask the helpful staff who will run you up to your carriage on an electric buggy. You need to check in with the attendant for your section and there is one just for the two First Class Sleepers in each of the three sections (Fort William, Aberdeen, and Inverness). Ours was the lovely Eileen who was getting married in Egypt the following Wednesday so congratulations, hope it went well! She shows you to your compartment(s), opens the connecting doors if you wish for adjoining compartments and takes your breakfast order and the time you want it served at in the morning. Additionally, First Class passengers can order meals in their compartments all of which have a call button for the attendant.


Interconnecting door with hangers


Slowly around the bend!

The lounge car, with the only real leather sofas on any scheduled British train. Pull up a chair & enjoy a light supper of 'haggis, tatties and neeps' (£4.50), a half bottle of red (£5.50) and a night cap of Glenfiddich whisky (£4) before retiring to your sleeper. We opted to have a bite in the Dining Car as we have heard reports of the atmosphere so the thought of the traditional Sleeper supper of Haggis, Tatties and Neaps and a nightcap of a wee dram beckoned us down the train. The first thing you notice in the Dining Car is the friendly ambience as people make room and move seats for you. We found ourselves in eclectic company with one of London’s leading Osteopaths who “comes down” each Monday night and “goes up” each Thursday to the small town in the Highlands where his wife and children lead the good life, a naval officer going home after a 9 month posting, a university lecturer and a business man, amongst others, all happy to mix in the club-like atmosphere of the Caledonian Sleeper. The Haggis (£4.50) etc; were not to materialise as the Dining Car ovens had gone down (!) but the friendly Lithuanian waitress fed us Salmon Pate and brown bread and some excellent Shiraz at £9.50 a bottle and somehow the absence of hot food didn’t seem to interfere with the good company and the flow of conversation helped by more wine and wee drams.








Lounge Car

As we wended our way to our sleepers some time later after much animated conversation and banter it is pertinent to mention another feature of the Caledonian Sleepers. It wends its way slowly through the night going through Crewe and Preston until this long snake like train comes to a halt at Haymarket just south of Edinburgh Waverley. Here it is broken apart with some terminating in Edinburgh and three sections going to Fort William (via Glasgow) Aberdeen and Inverness. Along the way to these three points each train stops at about 10 halts and towns so the chances of seeing your company from the night before are slim. This no doubt greatly contributes to the reckless nature of the jolly conversations the night before!


Haggis - The Chieftan of the Pudding Race!


Dining Car

So the really important question is how do you sleep on the sleeper? Well the answer is surprisingly well. The berths are comfortable and the compartments are roomy and private when you settle down for the night and whilst the centrifugal motion is noticeable at times as you go around bends the whole effect is soporohipic and soon you are in a deep sleep unconscious of the motion and the background click clack of the train. Indeed we slept though the break up south of Edinburgh so here’s to you Shiraz! As Omar Khayyam never said so much pleasure from a grape from the town of Shiraz in Persia! In the morning there is plenty of hot water and ScotRail give you a very natty toilet bag containing not just lotions and potions but also bed socks and a visor! The beds have fluffy white duvets, fresh clean sheets & plump pillows. On the bed are the complimentary ScotRail magazine, the room service drinks list (first class only) & complimentary toiletries pack (soap, flannel, razor, toothbrush & toothpaste). The sleeper compartments are compact but cosy, with hangars for your clothes. There are controls for the main light (dim/bright), blue night light, individual berth reading lights, an attendant call button & an air-conditioning temperature control.




Breakfast!

At 7.30 on the dot as ordered Eileen knocked on our compartment with Breakfast, the morning paper and a cheerful good morning. In Standard Class you get tea / coffee and a continental breakfast pack. In First you get a choice and for instance I had an orange juice, bacon roll, fresh fruit salad, yogurt and a pot of fresh coffee with biscuits. Next morning, there's a knock on your door as the steward brings your breakfast (included in the fare). You'll be asked when you board whether you'd like tea or coffee. The first class breakfast (shown here) includes a hot bacon or egg and cheese roll. First class passengers also get a morning newspaper. But the best was yet to come for next comes the magic. On opening your window blind you are entranced at the complete contrast with the surroundings of the night before. Before you passes the superb tableaux of the West Highland Line, wild angry mountains reflected in sparkling calm mirror lakes, shaggy horned Highland cattle staring at your train with total indifference, stops at small stations long ago turned into hostels for the walkers and nature lovers attracted to this pristine wilderness. Truly this is magic and you observe it with an increasing sense of awe as at each torturous corner of this dinky single track line negotiated slowly by your improbably heavy locomotive with its improbably small train of (now) four carriages your eyes and senses are assailed by the raw beauty of the highlands. This is why “The Deerstalker” sleeper train to Fort William is one of the Great Railway Journeys.


No caption required!

The West Highland Line (Scottish Gaelic: Rathad Iarainn nan Eilean - "Iron Road to the Isles") is one of the most scenic railway lines in Britain, linking the fishing port of Mallaig on the west coast to Glasgow. Passenger services on the line are operated by First ScotRail, primarily between Glasgow and Mallaig with the daily Caledonian Sleeper overnight service between Fort William and London Euston. The sleeper train terminates at Fort William, but the true glory of the West Highland Line is yet to come. The section between Fort William and Mallaig passes over a magnificent viaduct at Glenfinnan, through Arisaig with its fine views of the Small Isles of Rùm, Eigg, Muck and Canna, and the sparkling white sands of Morar before coming to Mallaig itself.


Highland Station

To complete the experience, you should take the connecting train from Fort William to the end of the line at Mallaig, a small fishing port and ferry terminal for Skye. This is one of the most scenic sections of line anywhere in the UK and features the famous curved Glenfinnan viaduct which is now immortalised to a whole generation of school children as the “Harry Potter viaduct” which carried the “Hogwarts Express”. Or you could climb Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain - the main track up "the Ben" starts just 15 minutes walk from Fort William station. But this Friday morning as we pulled into Fort William we did so with an increasing sense of anticipation for on the platform opposite was our next transport, the hissing, steaming “Jacobite Express” the steam locomotive-hauled train which operates over this section in summer and which in less than a half an hour would take us on our next adventure the 41 miles to Mallaig.


Fort William, end of the line for the sleeper

Onwards on the West Higland line to Mallaig and the isle of Skye!

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/07/jacobite-express.html

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