Showing posts with label Valletta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Valletta. Show all posts

Saturday, March 19, 2011

My favourite painting


Caravaggio. The Beheading of St. John the Baptist. 1607-1608. Oil on canvas. Co-Cathedral of St. John, Valletta, Malta

I have had an abiding interest in visual art since my days studying Architecture. Indeed one of my enduring bittersweet moments was, after I split up with my first true love, coming over to London on my own for my 23rd birthday and being thrilled both by the Dali Exhibition at the Royal Academy and the exhibition on the great architect Edwin Lutyens at the South Bank. Surrounded by beauty and feelings of loneliness exacerbated by the strange feeling of not having a real conversation with anybody for four days. My artistic taste rails against the figurative; I never wanted art to be an undemanding mirror which reflects the world back at you. And my personal instincts are anti-religious; I firmly believe Man created God.

Surprising then that my favourite painting is both figurative and with a religious theme but this is no ordinary painting and is by no ordinary artist and it cannot be seen in any art gallery. It is "The Beheading of St. John the Baptist" and the artist is that genius of light and shade (chiaroscuro) Michelangelo Merisi, known as Caravaggio. His life was short, turbulent and violent and to see his greatest painting you have to travel to the Island of The Knight’s of St. John, to Malta. There you enter into the walled city of Valletta, a UNESCO World Heritage site which is the greatest fortified Medieval City in the world and the spiritual home of The Sovereign Military Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta.




Tomb of Knight Gregory Spinola 1682, Co-Cathedral of St. John, Valletta

Here is the Co-Cathedral of St. John, Valletta and you enter into the world of the Knight’s of St. John, an interior of amazing richness and you walk on a hallowed floor of lavish inlaid marble tombstones of Noble Knights who here in 1565 and in the naval battle of Lepanto in 1571 defeated the forces of Suleiman the Magnificent and stopped the Mediterranean becoming a Muslim sea and Europe becoming a Muslim Province. To this day in Malta when they celebrate “Victory Day” it is this victory they remember. Afterwards in gratitude Catholic Europe poured money into Malta and the Knight’s built their great city of Valletta opposite the “Three Cities” on the far side of The Grand Harbour which had withstood the siege of Malta.




Co-Cathedral of St. John, Valletta

So in this hallowed space you then enter the vestry of the Cathedral and there you are stunned to silence by this, Caravaggio’s greatest work in the setting for which it was painted. You stare at this huge painting and you realise the artist’s genius as the painting is mis-titled. For what you are witnessing is not a beheading but the aftermath, when the executioner calmly and callously takes his knife to perform a butcher’s task, the severing of the neck sinews. There is not a religious symbol in sight but what there is like a Joycean text is a picture of mundanity and sparse detail, for the person being so callously butchered in front of the indifferent onlookers is no ordinary, person. For this is the patron after whom the Knight’s Order is named, John the Baptist who in the River Jordan baptised and had as a follower and disciple one Jesus of Nazareth. But there is no sentimentality in this picture, just the confident genius to picture this shocking event with sparse detail and no displays of reverence. It could be a sheep’s head being butchered and it is this scrupulous meanness of depiction which heightens the sense of man’s inhumanity to man. No longer concerned with the incidentals of the narrative, Caravaggio focuses on the essential human tragedy of the story. By presenting the opposite of the Christian message so graphically it emphasises the radical message of its founder, the disciple of John the Baptist. This picture was of huge symbolic importance to the Order of St. John whose most important relic was the arm of St. John, the arm which baptised Jesus.



This picture is the altar piece of the Oratory and was commissioned by Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt. It is the largest painting produced by the artist (12 feet x 17 feet) and the only one known to be signed. This painting is described as his all-time masterpiece. The painting depicts the moment in Biblical history where St John is beheaded by King Herod to satisfy the blood lust of the seductive dancer, Salome. The scene is the courtyard of a prison and the grisly murder is observed by two other prisoners looking through a grille, while a young woman and an old crone stand ready to take the severed head and put it on the waiting platter. The blood flowing from St John's neck drips towards the bottom of the frame and in its red stream, Caravaggio signed his name.


Michelangelo Merisi, Caravaggio

Michelangelo Merisi was born in the town of Caravaggio (about 30 kilometres from Milan) in 1571. Caravaggio was, in fact, the first great representative of the Baroque movement. He was the archetypal rebellious artist and led a turbulent life. His life, it is said, matched the high-drama of the chiaroscuro style that his paintings became famous for.

In 1606 whilst working in Rome, one of his many brawls resulted in Caravaggio killing a young man called Ranuccio Tomassoni. With a price on his head, Caravaggio fled and headed for Naples where he would be outside the Roman jurisdiction and under the protection of the Colonna family. After just a few months, despite a successful period in Naples where he was given a number of important church commissions, Caravaggio left for Malta, the headquarters of the Knights of the Order of St John of Jerusalem, arriving on the island in July 1607.

Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt invested Caravaggio as a knight of magistral obedience so taken was he at having an artist of such calibre as official painter of the Order. It was during this time that Caravaggio was commissioned to paint ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’ and ‘St Jerome Writing’, both of which are on display in St John’s Co-Cathedral.


Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt

This period of relative calm in his life was short lived, and by late August 1608, Caravaggio was arrested for causing trouble once again, this time badly wounding a high ranking Knight in another fight. Imprisoned at Fort St Angelo, disgraced and unable to paint, he used his inventive powers to plan his escape. Caravaggio’s incredible break-out took place in October 1608 and once again he was on the run. The Council, informed of his escape, immediately expelled him from the Order.


St John’s Co-Cathedral


After a nine month stay in Sicily, during which time he was trying to secure a pardon from Pope Paul V, Caravaggio returned to Naples and the protection of the Colonna family. His style and technique as an artist was still evolving and he enjoyed a productive time in his second spell in Naples. An attempt was made on his life, and an incorrect account of his death was reported in Rome. Although Caravaggio survived the attempt, his face was left seriously disfigured.


'Salome with the Head of John the Baptist',Caravaggio depicted his own head on the platter

In an attempt to build bridges, Caravaggio painted 'Salome with the Head of John the Baptist'. He depicted his own head on the platter and sent the work to de Wignacourt as a plea for forgiveness. In 1610, Caravaggio took a boat north to receive a pardon, thanks to powerful allies in Rome. What happened then is shrouded in mystery. The artist was reported as dead in a private newsletter (an avviso) dated 28th July. Three days later, another newsletter declared that the artist had died of fever. His body, however, was never found.

This picture of ‘St Jerome Writing’ looks upon “The Beheading of St John the Baptist” from the back of the vestry. It was painted for Ippolito Malaspina, a Maltese knight whose coat of arms is on the wooden panel to the right. He was connected by marriage to Caravaggio's patron Ottavio Costa and was a confidant of the Grand Master, who may have been used as the model for the saint (similarly Van Dyck was to use the sister of the Queen of England as model for the Madonna). The saint does indeed look like the knight in a recently discovered portrait by Caravaggio, who has been identified by some as Wignacourt himself.


St Jerome Writing, Caravaggio 1607

The composition is planned in terms of triangles. One rises from the table to the saint's head, another has its apex at the cardinal's hat on the wall to the left, a third recedes to the bedstead at the back on the right. This simple design helps convey an idea of simplicity. St Jerome has no halo, his workbench is rudimentary, he does not own any folios, he has one candle to see by, a crucifix to meditate on, a stone to beat against his chest, and a skull to remind him of his mortality. He is partly naked because he lives an eremitical life in the desert of Judaea. A steady light shines on his torso and picks out the red cloak round his legs. The source of the light is outside the picture, and can be interpreted as Christ, Light of the World.


Caravaggio's signature on the "Beheading of St. John the Baptist" before and after restoration. It is the only painting he ever signed


Awe is an expression too often used and consequently devalued. But it is an apt word to describe the effect of seeing Caravaggio’s great masterpiece, a painting which fills your mind as effectively as its huge size fills the end wall of the vestry church. A splendored setting filled with the spirits and bodies of the knights. In this context and watched over by St. Jerome “The Beheading of St. John the Baptist” will reduce you to silence and wonder. Travel to see it, its scale and impact can never be represented in a photo.

For the story of The Sovereign Military Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta, see;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/03/knights-of-malta.html


For the story of the UNESCO Heritage site which is Valletta see;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/05/valletta-and-grand-harbour.html


To see the city (also a UNESCO World Heritage site) which the Knights left on 1st January 1523 when defeated by Suleiman the Magnificent see;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2010/03/rhodes-town.html




Valletta

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Valletta and Grand Harbour, Malta


Valletta - A UNESCO World Heritage Site


Victory Gate Valletta

Valletta, Malta’s capital and a UNESCO World Heritage site, is nothing short of an open-air museum. It is a living experience of Baroque architecture, a monument donated by the Knights of St John nearly five centuries ago. Throughout the years, Valletta has welcomed emperors, heads of state, artists and poets and is now the permanent seat of the Maltese government. It is the most complete example of a planned fortified city and its setting between two natural harbours is impressive and its richness is contained in a street plan grid of twelve streets by nine. The capital of Malta is inextricably linked to the history of the military and charitable Order of St John of Jerusalem. It was ruled successively by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and the Order of the Knights of St John. Valletta’s 320 monuments, all within an area of 55 ha, make it one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world.

Carmelite Rotunda

The Grand Harbour (in Maltese: Il-Port il-Kbir) is a natural harbour on the island of Malta. It has been used as a harbour since at least Roman times. The name Malta itself comes from the Phoenician “Maltae” meaning a sheltered anchorage and this is what it still is today. The natural harbour has been greatly improved with extensive docks and wharves, and has been massively fortified. Grand Harbour was the base for the Knights of St John for 268 years, and after their departure became a strategic base for the British for a further 170 years. It was the site in the late 16th century of a devastating tornado that killed 600 people and destroyed a shipping armada. The area was the scene of much of the fighting in the First Siege of Malta when the Turks attempted to eject the Knights of St John. The whole area was savagely bombed during the Second Siege of Malta during World War II, as the docks and military installations around the port were legitimate targets for Axis bombers. However collateral damage wrecked much of Valletta and The Three Cities, and caused large numbers of civilian casualties.

Grand Harbour Bastions



Valletta, The Fortress City, Citta' Umilissima, “a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen” is Malta's capital city: a living, working city, the administrative and commercial heart of the Islands. Valletta is named after its founder, the respected Grand Master of the Order of St John, Jean Parisot de la Valette. The magnificent fortress city grew on the arid rock of Mount Sceberras peninsula, which rises steeply from two deep harbours, Marsamxett and Grand Harbour. Started in 1566, Valletta was completed, with its impressive bastions, forts and cathedral, in the astonishingly short time of 15 years.


Fort St. Angelo

Valletta has many titles, all recalling its rich historical past. It is the “modern” city built by the Knights of St John; a masterpiece of the Baroque; a European Art City and a World Heritage City. Ruled successively by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and the Order of the Knights of St John, it is one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world.

Streetscape

The city is busy by day, yet retains a timeless atmosphere. The grid of narrow streets boasts some of Europe's finest art works, churches and palaces. Valletta owes its existence to the Knights of St John, who planned the city as a refuge to care for injured soldiers and pilgrims during the Crusades in the 16th century. Until the arrival of the Knights, Mount Sceberras, on which Valletta stands, lying between two natural harbours, was an arid tongue of land. No building stood on its bare rocks except for a small watch tower, called St Elmo, to be found at its extreme end. Grand Master La Valette, the gallant hero of the Great Siege of 1565, soon realised that if the Order was to maintain its hold on Malta, it had to provide adequate defences. Therefore, he drew up a plan for a new fortified city on the Sceberras peninsula.

Pope Pius V and Philip II of Spain showed interest in the project. They both promised financial aid and the Pope lent the Knights the services of Francesco Laparelli, a military engineer, who drew up the necessary plans for the new city and its defences. Work started in earnest in March 1566 - first on the bastions and, soon after, on the more important buildings. The new city was to be called Valletta in honour of La Valette.

Valletta Street Corner

The Grand Master didn’t live to see its completion and he died in 1568. His successor, Pietro del Monte continued with the work at the same pace. By 1571, the Knights transferred their quarters from Vittoriosa (Birgu) to their new capital. Architect Laparelli left Malta in 1570. He was replaced by his assistant Gerolamo Cassar, who had spent some months in Rome, where he had observed the new style of buildings in the Italian city. Cassar designed and supervised most of the early buildings, including the Sacra Infermeria, St John's Church, the Magisterial Palace and the seven Auberges, or Inns of Residence of the Knights.

Valletta from Marsamxett Harbour

By the 16th century, Valletta had grown into a sizeable city. People from all parts of the island flocked to live within its safe fortifications especially as Mdina, until then Malta's capital, lost much of its lure. In the ensuing years, the austere mannerist style of Cassar's structures gave way to the more lavish palaces and churches with graceful facades and rich sculptural motifs.

The new city, with its strong bastions and deep moats, became a bulwark of great strategic importance. Valletta’s street plan is unique and planned with its defence in mind. Based on a more or less uniform grid, some of the streets fall steeply as you get closer to the tip of the peninsula. The stairs in some of the streets do not conform to normal dimensions since they were constructed in a way so as to allow knights in heavy armour to be able to climb the steps.

Auberge de Castille y Leon



Fast forward a few centuries and the city built by gentlemen for gentlemen came under another siege; this time in the shape of World War II which brought havoc to Malta. Valletta was badly battered by the bombing, but the city withstood the terrible blow and, within a few years, it rose again. The scars of the war are still visible till this day at the site previously occupied by the former Royal Opera House in the heart of the city, a wound that has left Malta’s MPs divided these past 60 years over what should replace it.

Dominating Palace Square, the Grand Master's Palace has always been the house of government in Malta, first by the knights, then the British and now hosts the President’s office. When parliament is not in session you can visit the palace for free, and there is an awful lot to see in here. In the interior of the palace is the famous Council Chamber, adorned with valuable Gobelin tapestries woven in France for Grand Master Ramón Perellos y Roccaf.

Grand Master's Palace

The other rooms and passages of the palace are splendidly furnished with art objects, old coat of arms and armour. Particularly notable are the former Hall of the Supreme Council of the Knights, which hosts fine frescoes and the Hall of the Ambassadors, where portraits of Grand Masters and European rulers hang. On the basement floor is the Armoury, one of the largest collections of its kind in the world, though reduced to a fraction of its former size by the depredations of the French. Among its principal treasures are a suit of armour made in Milan for the Grand Master, Adrien de Wignacourt (1690-97) and a full-length panoply made for Grand Master Martin Garzes by Sigismund Wold of Landshut.

Grand Master's Palace Armoury

The Co-Cathedral of St John is nothing short of a gem and was the spiritual centre of the Knights of St. John.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/03/knights-of-malta.html

Described as the first complete example of high Baroque anywhere, it epitomises the spiritual and military role of its patrons. The Cathedral is a showcase to Mattia Preti who intricately carved stone wall designs, as well as the painted vaulted ceiling and side altars with scenes from the life of St John. Among the treasures found in the Cathedral are the unique Caravaggio painting depicting the beheading of St John, the extraordinary paving of more than 300 marble tomb slabs (the burial place of several former European princes), and the splendid vaulted central nave with frescoes of Mattia Preti.

In Valletta the Order built the Church of St. John as the Conventual Church of the Order. Although each tongue had its own church, the Conventual church was the location of services that involved all the knights of Malta. Each grandmaster gave a gift to the Conventual Church upon his elevation; upon his death he was buried in the crypt underneath the church. Notable knights were buried under the floor of the church. Napoleon Bonaparte confiscated many of the precious items in the church in 1798 and melted them down for bullion. What remains today, including the empty reliquary of the arm of St. John the Baptist, is on display in the museum of the Conventual Church. Today, the church is operated by the diocese of Malta and has the status of co-cathedral with the Cathedral of Mdina. Visitors are still impressed by the more than 400 inlaid marble slabs that make up the floor of the church. These slabs mark the tombs of the knights.




Co-Cathedral of St John

Commissioned by the Grand Master, Caravaggio's Beheading of St John was made in 1608 for the chapel of the Co-Cathedral. It is the largest work the artist ever painted (12 feet x 17 feet) and the only one he ever signed. This painting is described as his all-time masterpiece. The painting depicts the moment in Biblical history where St John is beheaded by King Herod to satisfy the blood lust of the seductive dancer, Salome. The scene is the courtyard of a prison and the grisly murder is observed by two other prisoners looking through a grille, while a young woman and an old crone stand ready to take the severed head and put it on the waiting platter. The blood flowing from St John's neck drips towards the bottom of the frame and in its red stream, Caravaggio signed his name. It is the most compelling of paintings and nothing substitutes for seeing in person – the genius is that it does not depict the moment of execution but the aftermath and the indifference of those present to the cruelty done to the Prophet of Jordan. For the “St. John.” Of the Knights of St. John is John the Baptist and also in this cathedral they kept their most precious relic, the hand of John the Baptist, the hand which baptised Jesus of Nazareth.

Caravaggio's Beheading of St John - 1608 - Co-Cathedral of St John

On the oratory's right wall hangs Caravaggio’s smaller painting of St Jerome. Stolen in 1984 and rescued in a dramatic operation some months later, the painting depicts an elderly man sitting with a pen in his hand.

Hosting a vast cultural programme, walking around Valletta you’ll come across an intriguing historical site around every corner: votive statues, niches, fountains and coats of arms high up on parapets. Narrow side streets are full of tiny quaint shops and cafés, while Valletta’s main streets are lined with larger international branded shops for fashion, music, jewellery and much more.


At the end of Valletta is the fortress of St. Elmo, the patron saint of sailors. There are fine views from here across to Malta's Grand Harbour to the Three Cities of Senglea, Vittoriosa and Kalkara. The Grand Harbour is a natural harbour, which is situated on the Northeast coast of Malta. It is separated from Marsamxett harbour by Mount Sceberras, a rocky promontory on which Valletta, Malta's capital city is built. The harbour is the main port of entry for Malta and has container facilities and several dry docks The Grand Harbour has played a major part in Malta's history. It is deep, sheltered and bordered by high stone bastions. Although now quiet and peaceful, it has been the location for fierce battles over the years and was the site of ferocious bombings and huge destruction in World War II. Malta's majestic Grand Harbour is one of the most spectacular ports in the world. A wide stretch of water separating the capital city of Valletta from the historic towns of Three Cities, the harbour has been a hive of activity for over two thousand years. With its imposing fortifications and vast panorama, Grand Harbour is Malta's principal maritime gateway and a popular port-of-call for ships cruising the Med.

Seaplane taking off in Grand Harbour

Across Grand Harbour and facing Valletta are the Three Cities which offer an intriguing insight into Malta and its history. Left largely unvisited, these cities are a slice of authentic life as well as a glimpse into Malta’s maritime fortunes encompassing three distinct deep harbours of their own, French Creek, Dockyard Creek and Kalkara Creek. The Three Cities can rightly claim to be the cradle of Maltese history, as Senglea, Vittoriosa and Kalkara have provided a home and fortress to almost every people who settled on the Islands.

Vittoriosa and Fort St. Angelo

One of the most important towns in mediaeval Malta, in 1530 Vittoriosa became the first residence on the island of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, the Knights Hospital's. It was strongly fortified and served as the Knight's defence bastion against the Turks in the Great Siege of Malta in 1565. Its name, formerly Birgu,(derived from the Italian Borgo for 'town') was changed to Vittoriosa to commemorate the victory against the Turks. Vittoriosa served as the Knight's capital until its replacement by the city of Valletta, which was founded by Grand Master Jean de La Valette in 1570. The town continued to develop in the 17th century with commercial facilities and shipyards. Although severely damaged in World War II some of its old fortifications remain, including Fort St Angelo which was built in 870 and renovated and extended in 1530. The Palace of the Inquisitor and most of the 16th century Auberges (lodges of the Knights) also survived. Along the Vittoriosa waterfront the buildings that survived and stand to this day are Caraffa Stores Building, the Palace of the Prud'homme of the Arsenal and the residence of the captain of the Galleys.

Entrance to Vittoriosa

Fort St Angelo is the jewel in the crown of Malta's rich military heritage. It stands majestically at the tip of the promontory of Vittoriosa, dominating the Three Cities on the South Eastern side of the Grand Harbour. Its origins are shrouded in the history of the Middle Ages, though some historians would even venture to state that its stands on the site of a fortified Roman settlement. The Order of Malta has recently returned to the island of Malta, after signing an agreement with the Maltese Government which granted the Order the exclusive use of Fort St. Angelo at overlooking the Grand Harbour for a term of 99 years. Located in the town of Birgu, the Fort belonged to the Knights from 1530 until the island was occupied by Napoleon in 1798. Today, after restoration, the Fort hosts historical and cultural activities related to the Order of Malta.

The Inquisitor’s Palace, sited in the heart of Vittoriosa, is one of the very few surviving examples of a style of palace that would have been found all over Europe and South America in the early modern period. Many such buildings succumbed to the ravages of time or became victims of the reactionary power unleashed by the French Revolution against the ancien regime and all it represented. The fact that Malta’s palace, throughout its five centuries of history, always hosted high-ranking officials representing the main ruling powers on the Island helped ensure its survival. The palace also survived the Second World War and the threat of modern development. Although its successive occupants changed much in the structure of the building, the Inquisitor’s Palace remains an architectural gem, representative of the chequered history and European heritage of the Islands.



The palace was not built purposely as a residence for the Inquisitor. It was erected in the 1530s as the civil law courts of the Order of St John soon after the Knights arrived in Malta. It continued to serve as law courts until 1571, when the Order transferred its headquarters to Valletta after the siege of 1565. The palace then remained empty, but not for long. Mgr Pietro Dusina arrived in Malta in 1574 as the first general inquisitor and apostolic delegate of the Maltese Islands. The Grand Master offered him the unused palace as an official residence. Almost all successive inquisitors sought to transform the palace into a decent mansion. They all shared the same cultural values of clerical baroque Roman society, and by the mid-18th century they had managed successfully to transform the building into a typical Roman palace.



The Maltese Inquisition, an extension of the Roman Inquisition, began in 1562. Its purpose was to suppress heresy in the Catholic Church in Malta. Protestantism was not widespread in Malta, but Malta's location at the center of the Mediterranean meant that travelers brought different religious ideas into the island. By the seventeenth century, the Maltese Inquisition investigated the use of Muslim magic, brought to Malta by its Muslim slaves. Foreign sailors who blasphemed or Maltese husbands who demanded meat on Friday also found themselves before the Inquisitor. But unlike the Spanish Inquisition, the Maltese Inquisition did not enforce political control. As a result, the Inquisition did not terrorize the lives of the Maltese like it did the Spanish.

Instead, it seems that the Maltese Inquisition existed to monitor the Knights of Malta and to adjudicate between the Grandmaster and the Bishop. The job of Inquisitor of Malta often led to higher positions in the Church. From this post, two Inquisitors became Pope (Alexander VII and Innocent XII) and twenty-two Inquisitors became Cardinals. The Inquisition on Malta lasted until 1798 when Napoleon Bonaparte abolished it.


Senglea Waterfront

The Maritime Museum in Vittoriosa charts Malta’s maritime history and lore within a Mediterranean context and also illustrates the global nature of seafaring and its impact on society. The Museum is housed in the former British Naval Bakery at Vittoriosa, one of the Three Cities overlooking Grand Harbour. The building, designed by British architect William Scamp, was erected between 1842 and 1845 on the site of the old covered slipway of the Knights of St John. The bakery was the hub of the Victualling Yard and supplied the Royal Navy with its daily requirements of bread and biscuit. After World War II, it was converted into offices and stores and as the headquarters of the Admiralty Constabulary. The building remained part of the naval establishment up to the closure of the British base in 1979.

For almost two hundred years, Malta was the home of the British Mediterranean fleet. The Royal Navy kept a vast establishment on the Islands. The museum presents an overview of Malta as a naval base, and depicts aspects of naval and civilian life, both leisure and work. There is also a wide collection of paintings, photographs, models, uniforms, weapons, instruments and other artefacts that illustrate the history of the Royal Navy in the Mediterranean during the 19th and 20th centuries and attest to the Navy’s impact on the economy and social life on the Maltese islands.

Cottonera, or il-Kottonera, is the term used to describe the suburb which grew out of and behind Fort Saint Angelo and Fort Saint Michael, at the southern shores of Malta's Grand Harbour. This area, also referred to as 'The Three Cities', lies behind the (inland-facing) Cottonera lines; fortifications built during the reign of the stern Grand Master Fra’ Nicholas Cottoner.

Their harbour inlets have been in use since Phoenician times: the docks always providing a living for local people, but also leaving them vulnerable when Malta’s rulers were at war. As the first home to the Knights of St. John, the Cities’ palaces, churches, forts and bastions are far older than Valletta’s. The local communities here celebrate holy days and festas as nowhere else on the Islands. The most spectacular events are the Easter processions when statues of the “Risen Christ” are carried at a run throughout crowded streets.

Dockyard Creek

During the post-war years, Valletta lost many of its citizens who moved out to more modern houses in other localities and its population dwindled to 9,000 inhabitants. However, in the last few years many individuals with a flair for unique architecture are trickling back into the city and investing in old properties. Valletta, the smallest capital of the European Union, is now the island’s major commercial and financial centre and is visited daily by throngs of tourists eager to experience the city’s rich history.

With the war damage, the closure of the British Naval Dockyards in 1979 and the advent of containerisation many of the areas around the three cities were caught up in cycle of decline and dereliction. This is being reversed by the Valletta Waterfront Project which is regenerating the three subsidiary harbours off the Grand Harbour which frame the 3 cities. For example, the modern yacht marina is based just off the Birgu waterfront, which is made up of extraordinary buildings associated with the naval squadron of the Knights of St John. Fort St Angelo still stands proudly at the entrance to Dockyard Creek, witness to nearly one thousand years of history and numerous battles. The old naval bakery today hosts the Malta Maritime Museum where one can admire unique artifacts on display, each shedding light on the links between humans and the sea. The narrow and winding streets of the walled town are charming in themselves and one can stumble across architectural gems such as the Inquisitor’s Palace.

Birgu Waterfront

Following the departure of the Royal Navy, the recent construction of the ultra-modern yacht marina has given a new maritime function to this beautiful historic harbour. Yachts from all over the Mediterranean and beyond now call at this unique destination to make the most of its maritime pedigree and its strategic location in the centre of the Mediterranean Sea.

All these projects are putting the grandeur back into Grand Harbour and bringing much needed new life to a waterfront which provides such an amazing and awe inspiring setting for the baroque masterpiece of Valletta and the uniquely historic and atmospheric three cities.



See also;

My favourite painting;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2011/03/my-favourite-painting_19.html

Mdina and Rabat, Malta

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/06/mdina-and-rabat-malta.html

Neolithic Malta

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/02/neolithic-malta.html

Gozo

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/02/gozo.html


Sunday, March 30, 2008

Knights of Malta.


Grand Master Fra' Andrew Bertie


The fortified City of Valletta - A UNESCO World Heritage Site

When I was in Malta on the 7th February 2008 I noticed flags were flown at half mast including many flags displaying the Maltese Cross, the eight pointed flag of the Order of the Knights of Malta. I later found out that the flags were lowered in honour of Fra’ Andrew Bertie, a descendant of Britain’s royal Stuart family who was grand master of the Knights of Malta, who had died in Rome. His full title was His Most Eminent Highness, Fra' Andrew Bertie, Prince and Grand Master of the Sovereign Military Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta. In Latin his formal title is recited as "Dei gratia Sacrae Domus Hospitalis Sancti Johannis Hierosolymitani et militaris Ordinis Sancti Sepulchri Dominici magister humilis pauperumque Jesu Christi custos". (a part of this title commemorates the granting to the Grand Master d'Aubusson of the Mastership of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre by Pope Innocent VIII in 1489, which grant proved temporary).



Enjoying the precedence of a Cardinal and therefore that of a Royal Prince as well as the dignity of Prince of the Holy Roman Empire (recognised later by Austria and Italy), and formerly a reigning Prince of Rhodes and then of Malta, the Grand Master is styled both Eminence and Highness, or Most Eminent Highness, and is internationally recognised as a Chief of State and sovereign honours are vested in him. Whilst little noticed in his native Britain he was the 78th man to hold the office and was the first Englishman to be elected the Order's leader since Hugh Revel in 1258, and the first non-Italian since the end of the 18th century. So who was this person and why did he and his organisation have such a grand eloquent title?

Elected for life, the grand master carries the title of prince, and the position is equal in rank to that of a cardinal. Fra Bertie’s father, James, was a foreign exchange dealer at the stock exchange in London. His mother, Lady Jean Crichton-Stuart, was a descendant of the Stuarts, the ruling family of Scotland from 1371 to 1603 and of England and Scotland from 1603 to 1714, with an 11-year interruption in the 17th century. Born in London in 1929, Fra Bertie joined the knights in 1956 and took his vows in 1981. He had also been a financial journalist and a language teacher. He was a fourth cousin of the Queen through James II and Sophie of Hanover.




Unveiling of memorial to Fra'Andrew Bertie on Malta

With his friend Viscount Furness, Bertie developed an increasing interest in the Order of Malta, joining its British Association in 1956. Taking solemn religious vows in 1981, he moved to Rome, where he served on the Sovereign Council (the Order's governing body) for seven years. Nevertheless, it was a shock for so self-effacing a man, especially for one who was not an Italian, to find himself elected Grand Master in April 1988. In Italy, where the Order of Malta has a high profile, the election of an Englishman came as no less of a surprise.

The order traces its origins to the 11th century, when merchants from the Republic of Amalfi financed a hospital run by monks in Jerusalem to care for pilgrims to the Holy Land. It dates its founding, however, to 1099, when the monks took on a military role to protect the pilgrims. What is remarkable is that it is the only one of the Crusader Orders of Knights still extant as it had both a Hospitaller and Military role and the former function provides its raison d’etre today. Dedicated to caring for pilgrims and the poor and the sick, the Order emerged in Palestine in about 1100, during the Crusades, and took up arms to defend the Holy Land. It continued its war against Islam, first from Rhodes and then from Malta, whence it was evicted by Napoleon in 1798.

Since 1834 its headquarters has been the Palazzo Magistrale in Rome, which constitutes the world's smallest sovereign state; the Order exchanges ambassadors with many countries and issues its own passports. Membership is largely restricted to Catholics with proofs of nobility, although there is an increasing element from among the new elite. The higher officers are nearly always noblemen who have taken vows of poverty, chastity and obedience.

Today, the Order - officially known as the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta - numbers about 12,500 knights, dames, chaplains and donats (members who are not knights).


Chapel of Grand Master Wignacourt, Rabat, Malta

The birth of the Order dates back to around 1048. Merchants from the ancient Marine Republic of Amalfi obtained from the Caliph of Egypt the authorisation to build a church, convent and hospital in Jerusalem, to care for pilgrims of any religious faith or race. The Order of St.John of Jerusalem - the monastic community that ran the hospital for the pilgrims in the Holy Land - became independent under the guidance of its founder, Blessed Gérard. when the crusaders captured Jerusalem in 1099, the hospital had been in operation for decades at least, perhaps centuries, caring for the sick and poor, Christian, Muslim, and Jew alike. It was ruled by a monk who was known as the Blessed Gerard who offered the Hospital’s services to the crusaders.


Sacra Infermeria (Holy Infirmary), Valetta

The hospital was operated under the Benedictine rule, but was able to free itself from their influence and establish themselves as a separate order. In 1113, Pope Paschal II issued a papal bull confirming the foundation of the Order of the Hospitallers. Gerard’s successor, Raymond du Puy was responsible for establishing the Military wing of the order in response to the creation of the Military Order of the Temple of Solomon, or the Knights Templar. The Military Order of the Hospitallers quickly grew into a major force in the Holy Land and, along with the Templars, provided the bulk of the forces for the defence of the Kingdom of Jerusalem garrisoning several fortresses on the frontiers of the kingdom. By 1168, they had become so powerful that they were capable of making and breaking treaties with neighbouring rulers without the consent of the King of Jerusalem. They were even responsible for forcing King Amalric into a premature invasion of Egypt for which they provided 500 brother knights and sergeants and 500 turcopoles or Syrian mercenaries.


A model of a Galley of the Knights

A bitter rivalry developed between the Hospitallers and Templars, once almost breaking out into a civil war. The two orders hated each other so much that they could only be convinced to go into battle side by side under the most dire of circumstances, such as the Battle of Hattin. But neither was hated more than by Saladin. After Hattin, Saladin paid 50 gold pieces each for every member of the two orders whom his followers had captured. He then had them all executed.


15th July 1099 - The Crusaders take Jerusalem and slaughter all Muslims & Jews in the city

After the loss of Jerusalem, and the hospital, the few remaining Hospitallers retreated to their frontier fortresses to wait for another crusade to retake the city. That came two years later when Kings Richard and Phillip arrived and laid siege to the city of Acre, an important port for reaching Jerusalem. The Hospitallers joined the siege, and after two years, the Christian forces captured the city. The Order established a new hospital and headquarters in Acre. The crusading army moved on toward Jerusalem but did not attack. Weary of the Crusade, Richard agreed on a deal for Saladin to keep the city as long as he allowed Christian pilgrims to visit it. However, the crusaders managed to capture a few other cities in Palestine.

With the Bull of 15 February 1113, Pope Paschal II approved the foundation of the Hospital and placed it under the aegis of the Holy See, granting it the right to freely elect its superiors without interference from other secular or religious authorities. By virtue of the Papal Bull, the Hospital became an Order exempt from the Church. All the Knights were religious, bound by the three monastic vows of poverty, chastity and obedience.


Grand Master Alof Wignacourt

The constitution of the Kingdom of Jerusalem regarding the crusades obliged the Order to take on the military defence of the sick, the pilgrims and the territories that the crusaders had conquered from the Moslems. The Order thus added the task of defending the faith to that of its Hospitaller mission. As time went on, the Order adopted the white eight-pointed Cross that is still its symbol today. These eight points represented the eight Langue or tongues of the order, the countries which provided recruits and support. Both in their original capital in Malta of Birgu (renamed Vittriosa “The Victorious” after the siege of 1565) and their new capital named after a previous Grand Master of Valletta you will find the Auberges or Inn’s of each Langue.

It has led a somewhat itinerant existence since its foundation as its base has wandered from Jerusalem to Rome. The crusader “Kingdom of Jerusalem” retrenched from Jerusalem to Acre after the failure of the 3rd Crusade and eventually they lost their foothold in the Holy Land when Acre fell in 1291.

1310 - Rhodes



When the last Christian stronghold in the Holy Land fell in 1291, the Order settled first in Cyprus and then, in 1310, led by Grand Master Fra' Foulques de Villaret, on the island of Rhodes. In fact the order took a number of the Dodecanese Islands by force from the Byzantine Emperor. Whilst the Latin and Byzantine Church split in the schism of 1054 (over disagreement about one word in the Nicean Creed!) the real bitterness between the churches relates to crusaders who came to the east to defend Christianity going on to spill Christian blood at the sack of Constantinople in 1204 and afterwards the Empire was divided up between the Venetians and Normans. The Byzantines would have seen the taking of Rhodes and the Dodecanese in the same light which is why the Knights of Malta are not well regarded by the Orthodox to this day.




Palace of the Grand Masters, Rhodes.

From then, the defence of the Christian world required the organisation of a naval force. Thus the Order built a powerful fleet and sailed the Eastern Mediterranean, fighting many famous battles for the sake of Christendom - for example, the Crusades in Syria and Egypt. From its beginning, the independence from other nations granted by Pontifical deed, and the universally recognised right to maintain and deploy armed forces, constitute the grounds for the international sovereignty of the Order.

In the early 14th century the institutions of the Order and the knights who came to Rhodes from every corner of Europe were grouped according to the languages they spoke. There were initially seven groups of Langues (Tongues): Provence, Auvergne, France, Italy, Aragon (Navarre), England (with Scotland and Ireland) and Germany. In 1492 Castille and Portugal split off from the Langue of Aragon and constituted the eighth Langue. Each Langue included Priories or Grand Priories, Bailiwicks and Commanderies.


Grand Master's Throne, Rhodes

The Order was governed by its Grand Master (the Prince of Rhodes) and Council, minted its own money and maintained diplomatic relations with other States. The senior positions of the Order were given to representatives of different Langues. The seat of the Order, the Convent, was composed of religious of various nationalities. Today the Grand Masters Palace is still the centre of Rhodes town. It has suffered from a botched restoration by the Italians who occupied the Dodecanese from 1912 to 1943 and Mussolini had intended to use it as his summer palace.


The walled City of Rhodes

The Siege of Rhodes



In 1522 Suleiman had just finished his conquest of the Balkans with a victory over Hungary at the terrible siege of Belgrade. Now, at last, he would destroy Rhodes. Suleiman sent a letter to the Grand Master urging his friendship (meaning submission or surrender), and with intimidation cited the Sultan's "...triumph over the Hungarian King, whom we have stripped of the strong fortress of Belgrade, after having wasted his territories with fire and sword, and carried away many of his people." The Grand Master replied courteously, but noted the Order's determination to always defend its homeland. The Sultan's reply was a declaration of war.

As in the great siege 42 years earlier, the villas were levelled, and all the population of Rhodes, together with all available food and forage, were brought within the walls of the city. The Knights abandoned their other islands such as Kos and Kalymnos to concentrate their forces to defend Rhodes. . Under the command of the outstanding Knight Commander Anthony Bosio, vessels were dispatched to Candia (Crete), Sicily, Naples and France for whatever additional supplies, armaments, and men could be obtained. For example, on Candia, Bosio was able to enlist 500 Cretan archers. The Sultan assembled his fleet some 700 ships of which more than 100 were fighting galleys. He gathered his army more than 200,000 trained troops and as many as 100,000 sappers (slaves who were used to burrow under fortifications and set explosives). The armada set sail, and arrived at Rhodes on June 26, 1522. After sailing past the city to strike terror into the hearts of the defenders, a deserted area was chosen for disembarkation. It took thirteen days to unload the army, the supplies, and the hundreds of cannon some capable of firing balls nine feet in circumference.


Head of Medusa, Roman mosaic orginally from Kos in the Grand Master's Palace, Rhodes

Defending Rhodes were some 500 Knights and their servants of arms, probably fewer than 1,500 mercenaries and perhaps 4,000 Rhodian troops. There were several thousand inhabitants of Rhodes who at the arrival of the Turks entered the walled city for protection. Most lacked military training, and many were women and children. They could, however, help rebuild the walls, carry water, deliver supplies, and pray. This was, indeed, a small force to oppose the gathered might of the greatest Empire in the history of Islam. In fact, the forces of the Order at this time were slightly smaller than in the previous siege of 1480. The city, however, was at its strongest, encompassed by a double wall with thirteen towers, numerous bastions and special fortifications, a deep wide ditch around all, and the entire area commanded by cannon positioned for both frontal assault and crossfire. Every possible preparation and precaution was taken. Even the Latin and Greek Archbishops were instructed to give sermons regarding the necessity and merit of courageous resistance. Public prayers were offered imploring victory for the champions of the Cross.


Knights guarding the entrance to the Grand Master's Palace, Rhodes

Almost immediately after disembarking, the bombardment began, and daily assaults were made against the fortified city attacks which failed and cost the Turks dearly due to the precision of the Rhodian cannoniers. So heavy were the losses that the invaders wanted to abandon the siege. However, after so many Turk defeats by the Order, this time the Sultan himself would command the siege. Suleiman came ashore on July 28th. His first act was to assemble his entire army, unarmed. Then he surrounded them with 15,000 of his personal guard, and because of their failures and their desire to disengage, he threatened to execute every tenth man. They prostrated themselves before him and begged mercy. There was never again talk of abandoning the field.




Street of the Knights, Rhodes

A violent, continuous, general bombardment now began. It is difficult to grasp the intensity of this siege. Once the cannonade began it rarely let up. The battle raged day and night for five months. During the day the walls would be battered into rubble, while engagements took place all around the city as thousands of Turks assaulted various fortified positions. Then, during the night, even under bombardment, the walls were rebuilt. Buildings throughout the city would be torn down and the stone used to rebuild the fortifications.

Typical of the warfare throughout this siege was the repeated heavy assault on the bulwark of the English Knights, which was several times mined. On September 4th, this wall was successfully mined and exploded, destroying 36 feet of the wall. The Turks soon gained control of this position and planted their standard. The Grand Master, praying prostrate before the altar of Saint Mary of Victory, hearing the explosion, rushed to the wall, led a furious fight to the top, and personally tore down the Turk banner. In the battle that continued for hours, more than two thousand Turks were killed. Rhodian musketeers along the wall shot down hundreds, while Knights in armour met steel with steel in hand-to-hand combat. In this engagement alone, forty-eight Knights fell. It was a heavy loss for the Turks and an irreplaceable loss for the Order, but again the Cross had held against the Crescent. A few days later a similar assault was launched against the bulwark of Italy, with almost identical results. Four days later, Mustapha Pasha with four battalions again assaulted the English bastion, and then the bastion of Spain. The fighting defies description, and this time the Turks lost more than three thousand brave Janissaries.


Ruins of Our Lady of the Bourg. This was once the largest Catholic church on Rhodes, built by the Knights to commemorate their defeat of the Turks in 1480. It was hit by a British bomb during the war. Only ruins of this church remain.

Then on September 24th, an all-out attack by tens of thousands was simultaneously launched on the bulwarks of Italy, Spain, England, Provence and Auvergne. Minute details of all these separate battles can be found in the Order's archives. The resistance, the heroism, almost exceeded human capabilities. Often only a few against hundreds in hand-to-hand combat. In addition, the Order's sharpshooters, even using the crude harquebus muskets of that era, were deadly. One French Knight, Francis Fornovi, shooting from the Tower of Saint George, killed more than 500 Turks during the siege. Thus the battle continued, almost without respite, from June into December. At one stage the Grand Master, dressed in his armour, slept for thirty-four successive nights behind the entrenchment on the Spanish bastion, ready to repulse the next attack. Eventually, nearly every principal bastion was beaten into rubble by the Turk cannon, only to find that the Order had dug new ditches and built new walls behind those that were destroyed. Moreover, while the courage and fanaticism of the Turk troops was astounding, the heroism of the Knights and the Rhodians who were fighting for their lives and for their women and children (who would be violated and put to horrible deaths if Islam prevailed) was even greater.

But the prolonged siege took its toll. By mid December, only a few Knights were still alive. Tens of thousands of Turks were dead. The stench of rotting bodies of men and animals hung all over the inland. Unsanitary conditions contributed to much disease. The suffering and dying of the thousands of wounded was almost unbearable. Finally, with winter approaching, the Sultan offered a truce. He had no idea how many Knights remained, and if a considerable number were still alive, and they continued to fight as they had done, the siege would be too costly for him to continue. Similarly, the Grand Master was faced with rebellion by the civilian Rhodians and Greek citizens, and demands by the clergy for a truce. With few Knights still able to resist, L'Isle Adam agreed to negotiations.


Stairs of the Grand Master's Palace, Rhodes

Filled with awe for the Knights, and in sharp contrast to the usual 3 days of pillage and killing, Suleiman was magnanimous. If the Order would surrender Rhodes, the Sultan promised that the churches would not be profaned, no children would be taken from their parents, all citizens would be allowed free exercise of their religion, any and all residents of Rhodes would be free to leave the island with the Knights, those who remained would pay no tribute for five years, the Knights would depart in their own galleys and be supplied by the Turks with additional ships if needed, the Order could embark with all its property relics, consecrated vessels, records, and the artillery on board its warships, and the Turk army would retire several miles from the city while this evacuation took place. Suleiman himself came into the city to salute the Grand Master and addressed him by the title of "Father." On the first day of January 1523, L'Isle Adam and his intrepid Knights put to sea on fifty ships loaded with the Order's property, together with all those who fought with the Order, and all Christians who wished to accompany them. Many years later in 1565 towards the end of his long reign Suleiman was to regret his magnanimity when one of the Knights who left Rhodes under honourable terms, Jean Parisot de la Valette, now Grand Master, led the Knights who defeated Suleiman’s forces at the Siege of Malta.

In the same year, 1523, a former Knight of the Order "who had laid aside the sword for the cowl and rosary" Cardinal Julio de Medici, was unanimously elected Pope Clement VII. In the procession following his election the great standard of the Order of Saint John was carried before the new Pontiff.

To see the Knight's City of Rhodes see;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2010/03/rhodes-town.html


1530 - Malta


Phillipe Villiers de L'Isle Adam being received by the Maltese at Mdina 1530



For seven years the Order had no home, taking only transitory residence in Sicily and Italy. In 1530 the knights were granted the small and barren islands of the Maltese archipelago, along with the city of Tripoli on the North African coast, by the Hapsburg Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and king of Spain. Charles knew the wisdom in having such a military force to protect his southern flanks from Suleiman and his allies, the corsairs of the Barbary Coast. Charles set rent for the island at the annual payment of a falcon.

It is hard to imagine who was more unhappy at the arrangement: the knights, dismayed over the barren, impoverished, and poorly-defended land; the nobles and peasants of Malta, resentful and suspicious of their new and foreign rulers, who did not bother even to learn their language; or the Ottomans and their allies the corsairs, who realized that the harbors of Malta were perfect for sheltering the troublesome knights, who now commanded the vital sea lanes between Sicily and North Africa.

In 1530 Grand Master L'Isle Adam was received by Malta's unhappy nobles at Mdina, an ancient walled city which at the time was the island's capital. The seafaring knights preferred to build their convent in the fishing village of Birgu. They slowly began fortifying the area around the Grand Harbor against the Ottoman attack that all knew was inevitable.


Caravaggio. The Beheading of St. John the Baptist. 1607-1608. Oil on canvas. Co-Cathedral of St. John, Valletta, Malta

It was established that the Order should remain neutral in any war between Christian nations. In 1565 the Knights, led by Grand Master Fra' Jean de la Vallette (after whom the capital of Malta, Valletta, was named), defended the island for more than three months during the Great Siege by the Turks. In gratitude for the defence and defeat of the Turks after the Great Siege of Malta Christian Europe poured funds into the island and a new purpose built defensive capital of Valletta was built under the supervision of a military engineer sent by the Pope. . Today, the city they left behind is the greatest example of a fortified medieval city and a Unesco World Heritage site.

The Siege of Malta

The year is 1565. On the island of Malta, 600 Knights of St. John, commanding a force of some 8000 men, prepare to defend their island fortress from attack. These same Catholic Knights had been driven from their previous stronghold, the Isle of Rhodes, in 1522, by the Ottoman Turks. Under Suleiman the Magnificent, the Moslems were pressing hard across Arabia, Syria, Iraq, into Egypt and northern Africa, and had established a strong foothold on the north coast of the Black Sea, the gateway to all of Europe itself. In 1526, the Hungarians had been defeated at the Battle of Mohacs, and only the Austrian Habsburgs now stood in the way of the Moslem advance. Vienna came under attack in 1529, but the Moslems were unable to take the capital, and their over-extended campaign failed.


Galley of the Knights

Now, the Turks had raised a fleet of 181 ships, carrying some 30,000 soldiers, and Malta was the prize they sought. Their goal was to plunder and sweep all the ships of Christian Europe from the Mediterranean. Then, in control of the sea lanes and trade routes, with their naval and economic power supreme, all of Europe would be set to fall before them.

The Turkish fleet appeared off the coast of Malta, and laid siege to the island. All through the summer of 1565 the contest for Malta raged. In the end, the Knights of St. John (Knights of Malta) were victorious, and the Turks were forced to withdraw in defeat. It did not, however, end the threat from the Ottoman Turks.


The 3 Cities held by the Knights in the siege of Malta - seen from Valetta which was built after the siege

This was psychological warfare at its most brutal; a message sent by the Turkish Muslim commander whose invading army had just vanquished the small outpost of Fort St Elmo - a thousand yards distant across the water. Now the target was the one remaining fort on the harbour front where the beleaguered, outnumbered and overwhelmed Christians were still holding out: the Fort St Angelo. The Turkish commander wished its defenders to know that they would be next, that a horrible death was the only outcome of continued resistance.


Fort St. Angelo - Now reoccupied by the Knights under agreement with the Government of Malta

But the commander had not counted on the mettle of his enemy - the Knights of St John. Nor on the determination of their leader Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette, who vowed that the fort would not be taken while one last Christian lived in Malta. On news of the grotesque discovery of the headless knights - many of them his personal friends - Grand Master Valette quickly ordered that captured Turks imprisoned deep in the vaulted dungeons of the fort be taken from their cells, and beheaded one by one.

Then he returned a communiqué of his own: the heads of his Turkish captives were fired from his most powerful cannon direct into the Muslim lines. There would be no negotiation, no compromise, no surrender, and no retreat. We Christians, the Grand Master was saying, will fight to the death and take you with us. The Siege of Malta in 1565 was a clash of unimaginable brutality, one of the bloodiest - yet most overlooked - battles ever fought. It was also an event that determined the course of history, for at stake was the very survival of Christianity.



If vitally strategic Malta fell, the Muslim Ottoman Empire would soon dominate the Mediterranean. Even Rome would be in peril. The Muslims had hundreds of ships and an army tens of thousands strong. The Christians were a ragtag bunch of just a few hundred hard-bitten knights and some local peasant soldiers with a few thousand Spanish infantry. Malta looked doomed. That the Hospitaller Knights of St John existed at all was a minor miracle. They were a medieval relic, an order established originally to look after ailing pilgrims to the Holy Lands during the Crusades 300 year’s earlier - other orders of the Crusades, such as the Knights Templar, had been extinct for two-and-a-half centuries.


Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette

They came from countries all over Europe: Germany, Portugal, France, and Spain. All that united them was a burning desire to defend Christendom against what they perceived as the ever-encroaching tide of Islam. Yet by the 16th century, an age of the increasing power of nation states, these trans-national zealots were viewed as an embarrassing anachronism by much of Europe. Already the Turks had forced them from their earlier home, the island of Rhodes. Now the knights had moved to Malta - and were threatened once more.

Suleiman controlled the greatest fighting force in the world. Before him lay an armada of 200 ships ready to sail, an army of 40,000 troops on board. He planned to wipe the barren rock of Malta and the Knights of St John from the map. These knights lived by raiding and disrupting his Ottoman shipping routes. The last straw had been their capture of the prized ship of his powerful courtier the Chief Black Eunuch.




Grand Master's Palace, Valetta

The Sultan did not expect undue trouble exacting his revenge. A mere 700 knights stood in his way. Such a rabble would be quickly cleared. The Turkish fleet headed across the Mediterranean in March 1565. Aboard the ships were the elite Janissary shock-troops - the "Invincible Ones" - who had carried Islam across Europe with the slashing blades of their scimitars. In late May 1565, the invasion force arrived at the island. The knights awaiting them enjoyed good intelligence of their plans and had asked for assistance from the Christian armies of European nations. Every kingdom spurned their request - other than Sicily, which said that if the knights held out, help would eventually come.

They first attacked Fort St. Elmo at the head of the rocky peninsular which is today the City of Valletta. Each time they were met by the ragged and diminishing band of defenders, fighting with pikes and battle-axes, firing muskets and dropping blocks of stone, throwing fire-hoops that set ablaze the flowing robes of the Muslims and sent them burning and plummeting to their deaths. The fire-hoops - covered in flax and cotton, dipped in brandy and coated with pitch and saltpetre - were the knights' own invention. Dropped blazing over the bastion walls, they could engulf three Turks at a time. For 30 days, cut off and doomed, the soldiers of St Elmo prevailed. The Turkish general had expected the fort to fall within three. Late at night on Friday June 22, 1565, the few hundred survivors from an original garrison of 1,500, sang hymns, offered up prayers, defiantly tolled their chapel bell and prepared to meet their end the next day.


Gate to the City of Birgu, Malta (renamed Vittriosa “The Victorious” after the siege of 1565)

Those unable to stand were placed in chairs behind the shattered ramparts, crouching low with their pikes and swords to await the final assault. When it came, and the entire Turkish army descended as a howling mass, the handful of Christians still managed to fight for several hours. Eventually the Ottomans took their prize. The crescent banners of the Grand Turk flew above the ruins, the heads of the knights were raised on spikes, and the crucified bodies of their officers were floated across to Fort St Angelo on the far side of the harbour. The Turks had lost time and up to 8,000 of their crack troops.


Auberge de Castille y Leon, Valletta

Summer heat was rising, disease and dysentery spread throughout the Muslim camp, and the dead lay piled around the blackened remnants of the seized fort. But Grand Master Valette was not about to quit. Scenes of heroism and horror abounded in the terrible days that followed. There were extraordinary characters: Fra Roberto, the priest who fought on the battlements with a sword in one hand and a cross in the other; the two English "gentlemen adventurers" who arrived belatedly from Rome to take part in the action; Valette himself, who stood unyielding in the breach and used a spear to battle hand-to-hand against the foe.

Others had led desperate sallies against the Ottoman, harrying their labour corps, sniping at commanders, spiking their guns. But the enemy, too, had their brave and vivid figures. Among them was Dragut, the most feared corsair of his day, whose skill and dash had served the Sultan well. A cannonball splinter did for him. Yet the siege continued, the target now St Angelo, the final and fortified enclave of the knights on the southern side of Grand Harbour.


Auberge d'Auvergne et Provence, Valletta

The Turks tried every twist and tactic in their military manual. They tunnelled beneath the Christian defences to bury gunpowder and blow the knights to bits. The Maltese responded with their own mines to blow up the tunnels and there were terrible skirmishes below ground. Next the Turks drew up siege engines, giant towers designed to pour their infantry direct on to the battlements. The knights removed stones at the base of the battlement walls so that they could run out cannon through the openings they had created, and blast the siege engines apart.



On several occasions those walls were breached, the Turks rushing through eager to slaughter all in their path. Triumph seemed at hand but they found too late that the knights had improvised an ambush, creating a killing zone into which they were funnelled and slaughtered. Success for the Turks was slipping away. The furnace temperatures of July and August sapped morale and strength; the sense of failure clung as pervasively as the surrounding stench of death. The Turks' commander, Mustapha Pasha, marched inland to take the walled city of Mdina, only to withdraw when scouts informed him of its substantial and well-armed garrison. It was a trick. Mdina was largely undefended, its governor ordering women and children to don helmets carry pikes and patrol the walls. Frantic, with casualties mounting and autumn storms looming, the Turks rolled a giant bomb - a fiendish barrel-shaped object packed with gunpowder and musket balls - into the Christian positions.

The knights promptly rolled it back and it blew a devastating hole in the massed and waiting Muslim ranks. It rained. Believing the gunpowder of the knights to be damp, their muskets and cannon useless, Mustapha Pasha again sent his troops forward. They were met by a hail of not only crossbow bolts but gunfire, for Valette had anticipated such a moment, setting aside stores of dry powder. Finally, relief reached the knights in the form of a small army from Sicily. Believing the enemy reinforcements too weak to be of any consequence, Mustapha Pasha angrily ordered his troops - who had bolted on hearing of the new arrivals - to turn back and march towards them. It was the last of his many grave blunders.

The cavalry of the relief force charged, then the infantry, tearing into the Turkish centre, putting it to flight. Rout turned to bloodbath. The once-proud Ottoman force scrambled in disarray for its ships, pursued across the island, cut down and picked off at every step. Thousands died and the waters of St Paul's Bay ran red. Of the 40,000 troops that had set sail in the spring from Constantinople, only some ten thousand made it home. Behind them they had left a scene of utter devastation. Almost the entire garrison commanded by Jean Parisot de Valette - after whom the city of Valletta is named - had perished. Now, after 112 days of siege, the ragged handful of survivors limped through the blitzed wreckage of their lines.

Malta was saved, for Europe and Christianity. The Knights of St John had won. To this day Victory Day, 8 September, is a national holiday in Malta. It is locally known as il-Vitorja (the Victory) and il-Bambina (Baby Mary) and it celebrates not as many think the victory in World War 11 but the victory of the Great Siege by the Knights of St. John against the Turks of 1565.


Armoury, Grand Master's Palace, Valletta.

1571 - The Battle of Lepanto


The fleet of the Order, then one of the most powerful in the Mediterranean, contributed to the ultimate destruction of the Ottoman naval power in the Battle of Lepanto in 1571. When news of the victory reached Europe, church bells rang out in cities all across the continent. The Battle of Lepanto was a decisive victory, with only 40 of the over 300 Moslem ships surviving the engagement. The Turkish force of some 75,000 men was in ruins.


Battle of Lepanto

The battle, although a great victory for Catholic Europe, did not end the threat of invasion, or completely break the power of the Ottoman Turks. More naval and land battles would follow in the years to come, and Vienna itself would come under attack again, and yet again.


Valletta on Mount Sciberras with St. Elmo Fort at its seaward tip

After the Great Siege, a new and more heavily fortified capital was built on Sciberras, a peninsula overlooking the Grand Harbor. The city was called Valletta, after the Grand Master who led the island's defenders against the Ottoman attack. The knights continued their traditions of maintaining one of Europe's finest hospitals, of raiding enemy (Muslim) shipping, trading in slaves, and, of course, drinking and debauching. Afterwards the power of the Knights grew until by the 17th Century the Grand Master was styled “King of Malta” and wore the closed or “magisterial” crown. He had acquired all the attributes of sovereign, addressing kings as "Cousin". He still wears an extraordinary hat of office - an inverted fluted cone - that is as distinctive in its own way as that of a Venetian Doge.

Valletta's Sacra Infermeria



The extensive edifice of the Sacra Infermeria (Holy Infirmary) occupies a large site which overlooks the Grand Harbour, very near Fort St. Elmo. This hospital, one of the first buildings of Valletta, started to function in 1574 under Grand Master Jean de la Cassiere. Originally, it consisted of a large ward. Under the rule of Grand Master Nicholas Cottoner (1663 - 80), the hall was enlarged; and in 1712 Grand Master Perellos commissioned a new building alongside Merchants Street, which included a chapel and a pharmacy.

Valletta's Sacra Infermeria was the best-equipped hospital of the Order. In its day, it counted amongst the finest hospitals in Europe. The Infermeria had six wards; the largest measured 161 metres and is still the longest and one of the most impressive rooms in Europe. The infirmary provided about 900 beds for male patients who included knights, soldiers, sailors and foreigners. Maltese patients and slaves were accommodated in another large hall below the Main Ward. In 1676, a school of anatomy and surgery was set up in the building.

The administration of the Sacra Infermeria was entrusted to knights of the French Langue, under the headship of the Grand Hospitaller. When the Knights were forced to leave the Island in 1798, Napoleons’ troops used the hospital for their own personnel. The British, who took over Malta’s government in 1800, renamed the Infirmary ‘Station Hospital’, and used it as such until the end of the First World War.


Tending the wounded


Sacra Infermeria

The Sacra Infermeria was a huge contrast to the often squalid hospitals of the day. Because healing was part of their oath the Knights ensured it was spacious and airy and kept scrupulously clean even though the importance of hygiene and the existence of germs was not understood at the time. Like Hippocrates they believed in a holistic approach to healing with spiritual counselling and hearty food often served by the Knights themselves as part of their vow to minister to the sick. Food was served from silver platters rather than the wooden platters used at the time and whilst the Knights realised that these could be cleaned better it has since been discovered that silver itself has natural antiseptic properties.

1798 - In exile

Their Mediterranean stronghold of Malta was captured by Napoleon in 1798 during his expedition to Egypt. As a ruse, Napoleon asked for safe harbor to resupply his ships, and then turned against his hosts once safely inside Valletta. Grand Master Ferdinand von Hompesch zu Bolheim failed to anticipate or prepare for this threat, provided no effective leadership, and readily capitulated to Napoleon, arguing that the order's charter prohibited fighting against Christians. In 1799, in disgrace and under pressure from the Austrian court, he resigned his office and retreated into obscurity.The Maltese boxed in the French for two years in Valletta and the Three Cities until the British Fleet accepted their surrender.

The knights were now dispersed, though the order continued to exist in a diminished form and negotiated with European governments for a return to power. The Russian Emperor, Paul I, gave the largest number of knights shelter in St. Petersburg, an action which gave rise to the Russian tradition of the Knights Hospitaller and the Order's recognition among the Russian Imperial Orders. The refugee knights in St Petersburg proceeded to elect Tsar Paul as their Grand Master – a rival to Grand Master von Hompesch until the latter's abdication left Paul as the sole Grand Master. As Grand Master Paul I created, in addition to the Roman Catholic Grand Priory, a "Russian Grand Priory" of no less than 118 Commanderies, dwarfing the rest of the Order and open to all Christians. Paul's election as Grand Master was, however, never ratified under Roman Catholic canon law, and he was the de facto rather than de jure Grand Master of the Order.

By the early 1800s, the order had been severely weakened by the loss of its priories throughout Europe. Only 10% of the order's income came from traditional sources in Europe, with the remaining 90% being generated by the Russian Grand Priory until 1810. This was partly reflected in the government of the Order being under Lieutenants, rather than Grand Masters, in the period 1805 to 1879, when Pope Leo XIII restored a Grand Master to the order. This signalled the renewal of the order's fortunes as a humanitarian and religious organization. Hospital work, the original work of the order, became once again its main concern.


Insignia of The Order

Although the sovereign rights of the Order in the island of Malta had been reaffirmed by the Treaty of Amiens (1802) and the Congress of Vienna (1815), the Order has never been able to return to Malta. When the British landed on the island in 1800 they found themselves de facto rulers of Malta and it became the key to the British Navy’s control of the Mediterranean and the passage to India when the Suez Canal opened.

To see the Knight's City of Valletta see;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/05/valletta-and-grand-harbour.html


1834 - Rome

After having temporarily resided in Messina, Catania and Ferrara, in 1834 the Order settled definitively in Rome, where it owns, with extraterritoriality status, the Magistral Palace in Via Condotti 68 and the Magistral Villa on the Aventine Hill.

The 20th and 21st Century
The original Hospitaller mission became once again the main activity of the Order, growing ever stronger during the last century, most especially because of the contribution of the activities carried out by the Grand Priories and National Associations in so many countries around the world. Large-scale Hospitaller and charitable activities were carried out during World Wars I and II under Grand Master Fra' Ludovico Chigi Albani della Rovere (1931-1951).Under the Grand Masters Fra’ Angelus de Mojana di Cologna (1962-1988) and Fra' Andrew Bertie (1988-2008) the Order was reformed to adopt a more international structure emphasising its original mission of caring.


Coat of Arms of the Knights of Malta

The Order has recently returned to Malta, after signing an agreement with the Maltese Government which granted the Order the exclusive use of Fort St. Angelo at overlooking the Grand Harbour for a term of 99 years. Located in the town of Birgu, the Fort belonged to the Knights from 1530 until the island was occupied by Napoleon in 1798. Today, after restoration, the Fort hosts historical and cultural activities related to the Order of Malta.

So by any standards after 900 years this Order is a remarkable survivor in the modern world, the only tangible link with the Crusades which for good or bad have defined the relationship between the 3 religions of Christianity, Judaism and Islam and also between Latin and Eastern Christians.

The Order combines an aristocratic membership with modern humanitarian activities. In Catholic Europe it is the last bastion of the old establishment. King Juan Carlos was President of its Spanish Association before he became king, while the Austrian Association contains a score of Habsburg archdukes. Its hospitaller activities - funding and administering hospitals, providing ambulance brigades and sending supplies - range from Peru to Pakistan, from California to Russia. There is also a worldwide relief service, Malteser International. The Order specialises in helping victims of armed conflict or natural disaster, providing medical assistance, caring for refugees and distributing medicine and basic equipment for survival.



Its members are supported by 80,000 permanent volunteers, who are backed by a qualified staff that consists of more than 13,000 doctors, nurses, auxiliaries and other assistants.

Fra' Andrew's term of office proved highly successful. He spoke five languages (and had a working knowledge of half a dozen more), and he increased the Order's membership, bringing a fresh approach to its humanitarian activities and extending aid to hitherto inaccessible regions.
The Order's diplomatic missions, offering assistance during natural disasters or armed conflict, doubled from 49 to 100. Fra' Andrew established conferences at which members of the Order were invited to contribute to its work, were encouraged to commit themselves to the spiritual aspect of its mission to the sick and the poor, and were urged to live according to Christian principles. Above all, he wanted the knights, even those not in vows, to see their calling as a religious vocation.

On Malta, where he loved to spend holidays (Both he and his mother had holiday homes and citrus groves on Malta at Attard), he organised judo classes for children, teaching them himself (he was a judo black belt). He enjoyed great support from his younger brother Peregrine, and was delighted when he became president of the British Association.


Knights with an Orthodox Metropolitan

Characteristically, the Grand Master's last official pronouncement, in January this year, was very much to the point. In an address to the ambassadors accredited to the Sovereign Military Order, he warned of harmful and unfounded rumours that the knights were involved in anti-Islamic activities in countries where, in reality, they were engaged in humanitarian work. Rumours of this sort, he told the ambassadors, were placing the lives of the Order's volunteer carers in grave danger.



Today this venerable institution faces new challenges. Remarkably, they have elected another Englishman, Fra' Matthew Festing, 58, to become the 79th Grand Master of the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta. It needs to revamp and redefine itself and in particular its archaic structure and insistence on aristocratic antecedents is a major barrier to growth and development, particularly in areas such as the United States where it needs to win supporters and funds. Its aristocratic nature was outdated when (the then) General Napoleon landed on Malta in 1798 and has not become more relevant since. However given its remarkable history and capacity for regeneration who would suggest that the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta does not have 900 years of history in front of it?

http://www.orderofmalta.org/


Magistral Palace in Via Condotti, Rome